March 31, 2014 at 6:27 pm #5880
Outstanding input Malgus!
I also forgot to mention the fact that there are usually a few thousand aircraft in the air at any given time over CONUS. Yes planes can survive a lightning strike, but most people would assume that an EMP would really screw with it, enough to bring MOST of them down (might be a few that, with skilled pilots, may be able to bring them down relatively safely).
So we’d have to take into consideration that around major flight paths and airports, there would be unspeakable destruction if many of these airliners and other aircraft come crashing down. Pardon my french, but that alone would be really fucked up, not to mention the effects of the EMP on everything else.
Canadian Patriot. Becoming self-sufficient.March 31, 2014 at 7:59 pm #5919
I had a very long and detailed conversation about that very subject with a profession aircraft mechanic – the effects of an EMP on aircraft in flight…
Bottom line, the instrumentation would be blown out, but the engines would continue to spin and the pilot would retain control of the aircraft. However, with all his electronics cooked, it would be… well, difficult, to land a jet liner on zero instrumentation, especially when the world below you is pitch black and airport transponders are cooked…
If it happened during daylight hours, more planes would survive than not. If it happened at night, well… even though there are fewer planes in the air at night, it would still be a cluster f*ck…
By the way, the math? There are roughly 3000 airliners in the air at any given time over the US… with 200 people per aircraft? Well 3000 X 200 is 600,000 people…
Which is another reason why I don’t fly…
The wicked flee when none pursueth..." - Proverbs 28:1March 31, 2014 at 8:23 pm #5921
Yes Malgus everything in the sky will come down and the streets will be full of cars stopped die.
Red try to find hand tools that will do what the electric tools do. Guys if this happens it will last more then 1 year to come back, some are posting it may take 5 to 10 years to get back everything.March 31, 2014 at 8:46 pm #5925
That’s exactly why I posted the thread about what sort of tools people have lol
I personally think that if we were hit with a couple EMP devices that were designed and used to maximum effect, it would take at least 5 years for some normalcy to begin in just a few areas. With regards to the U.S. as a whole, it would be decades for things to be “normal” all around.
Canadian Patriot. Becoming self-sufficient.March 31, 2014 at 8:59 pm #5930
Red last week I purchased at HomeDepot a hand tool that I can use the sawzall blades with my hands to cut metal.
Link for you to see!
I love this one since they sale many types of sawzall bladesMarch 31, 2014 at 9:01 pm #5931
Red I am looking for a good hand drill if you find were they sell them please post.
Also I have for my well a hand pump so I can pump the water. If you have a well this is very important.March 31, 2014 at 9:19 pm #5941
That’s a conundrum. Are you looking for an electric drill or a hand drill?
See, the conundrum is that things like a Brace and Bits, the eggbeater drill, those things are still being made, but the work is farmed out to the Chinese and the Hindus… their quality tends to… well, frankly their quality sucks the big hairy meatball…
If it were me, I would do an online search for “Vintage Tool Dealers” or “Antique Hand Tools”. There are several online who deal in only the best high-quality tools from our grandfathers’ time… I also scored quite a few good tools off of Ebay. If there are antique stores near you, hit those up. Sometimes they have diamonds in the rough..
If worst comes to worst, try Woodcraft. They sometimes carry good stuff.
I have both a Brace and Bits as well as the old eggbeater hand drill. They’re good stuff.
The wicked flee when none pursueth..." - Proverbs 28:1March 31, 2014 at 9:53 pm #5949
Thank you Malgus for the info. Hand drill is what I am looking for. It needs to be made in the good old U. S. A.March 31, 2014 at 10:36 pm #5962
Malgus, I just purchased on ebay four for $33.98 with shipping, they look good shape three just need some cleaning
One is a Stanley, two are Miller Falls and there is one with no name which has a broken wood handle knob which I can fix. This was a very good deal.
Malgus thanks for the info.March 31, 2014 at 11:43 pm #5983
Stanley made good stuff, but Miller Falls was just as good. freedom for the win!
When you go hunting for auger bits, DO NOT SKIMP. Find a set, if possible, that has been time-capsuled.. if the wooden storage box is in good shape, chances are the bits are in primo shape. If the box looks like it got dragged up a dirt road behind a truck, the bits might be salvageable, but ????
Best to go with a set that is squared away to begin with. Oh yeah, one last thing – over on the Woodcraft site (I think) there is a special file made specifically to sharpen auger bits. Get a couple. I touch up the bits whenever I use them. Also, Spyderco makes a set of ceramic sharpening stones that comes in a wee little leather pouch. 4 different shapes – in cross-section, they are square, circle, taper and triangle. I use them for all sorts of stuff. They work especially well to bring auger bits up to a razor edge.
Oh yeah, one last, last thing… you’ll find this out later, but when you are boring through the wood with an auger bit, they tend to tear out on the backside, just as they’re going out the other side… to make nice, neat, squared away holes, you should back up your workpiece with a scrap of wood. I usually clamp a chunk of pine 2×4 to the workpiece, and the auger drills into that. Play with them some. You’ll have a blast and find out what works and what doesn’t…
The wicked flee when none pursueth..." - Proverbs 28:1April 1, 2014 at 12:43 am #5989
Malgus great info! I have been in the construction business since I was 14 with my father and I am 56. My father is 84. I own 100’s of tools and am very good with my hands. So I get the idea of the scrap of wood part. This even happens with some electric drills. Once I receive them I will start hunting for the auger bits.
Question for you, do you think that I can steel bit to drill still? I know this would be much harder but just thinking if an EMP or SHTF there maybe no other why to drill.
Will look for the Spyderco set of ceramic sharpening stones.April 1, 2014 at 1:00 am #5995
Yes, I have seen jobber drills made for the Brace. Seen, not used. So, I don’t know the hardness of the drills, but they look pretty much the same as any other jobber bits, except for the end that goes in the drill.
Man, I got the name of the dealer on the tip of my tongue… grrrr…. modern made jobber bits for the Brace… Let me go do a search for them… be right back..
The wicked flee when none pursueth..." - Proverbs 28:1April 1, 2014 at 1:20 am #5998
Crap, I can’t find them… I know I’ve seen them. Tapered shank jobber bits for the old school brace.
Worst comes to worst, you can get a set of regular jobbers and, depending on how good you are, grind a taper on each one. Or, you could get extra long bits and have a machinist grind the tapers.
I have drilled in steel with the eggbeater type drills. The Germans still make a high-quality eggbeater style drill, and the woodworking tool supply houses carry them… those take regular old schmoe jobber bits. You have to go slow and the bits have to be sharp as they can be (so getting one of those drill bit sharpeners will pay dividends), but you can drill steel with them. Just FYI…
The wicked flee when none pursueth..." - Proverbs 28:1April 1, 2014 at 1:23 am #6000
I’ve drilled steel with a brace. It is slow. You can chuck up regular bits for this because the torque on the bit is not to high, assuming your not drilling inch holes.April 1, 2014 at 2:09 am #6007
Malgus, The eggbeater type drills I will have to purchase one of those next. I will look into the regular jobbers and and grind a taper on each one.
1974t150v I will try doing it with regular bits. I will test it all. This has been great information. Thanks guys!
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