The real issue is picking what you believe is the correct scope. The rifle as long as it is fairly accurate now will only be better with a scope. The scout scope selection is limited but if you add in hand gun scopes it will give you a more options.

Getting the correct eye relief is the first issue. Then selecting the most appropriate magnification. I believe exit pupil is important. If I the pupil is small getting lined up with the scope could be slow.

I have a 4x Leupold handgun scope on a Swedish Mauser. I built when the guns were going for $75.00. (So if thete is a purist reading this hold your fire). I found the gun can shoot much better then a 4 power scope allows, do I want more magnification. The exit pupil is smaller then I’d like. The scope has more eye relief then I want. My scope is not good in low light with a 1″tube and 24mm objective lens.

I had Millet rings on it until about 2 years ago, and switched to a tactical forward one-piece mount. I modified my sight base to accept picatinny rail mounts.

I’m thinking about switching to a Burris 3X13 32mm so I can take advantage of the long range accuracy on the rifle and still have fast cqb ability.

Exit pupil is important with regards to light-gathering of the scope and how much of it is transmitted through the scope to your eye via the eyepiece. This is how “bright” the image appears to be to you.

Since your eye itself is only capable of passing “X” amount of light, anything over and above that is useless since your eye is incapable of processing the extra…

Shooting Times has a good article on it. Fair use quote:

It is tempting to conclude that the largest obtainable exit pupil is the most desirable. But that’s not always the case. The catch is that the pupil of a normal human eye opens to a maximum diameter of 5mm to 7mm, depending on the individual, even in extremely dark surroundings. Exit-pupil diameters that exceed about 7mm deliver more light than your eye can accept.


Now granted, this is a quote of a much larger article, but it backstops my point. In fairness, a large exit pupil does give you greater freedom of where you position your eye along the “axis of bore” of the scope – with older scopes, you had to position yourself in a pretty specific spot to have everything correct. This could be considered the “X” and “Y” axis of the equation.

Eye relief is the distance from your eye to the eyepiece – call this the “Z” axis. This should be set by another person. Preferably someone who knows what they’re doing.

How I set eye relief for a customer:

1. Mount the bases and rings as normal, using scope alignment rods as a stand-in for the scope. Remove rods and upper ring halves, leaving lower ring halves attached.
2. Have the customer close his/her eyes and then shoulder the rifle. Keep eyes closed and get comfortable on the stock.
3. Place scope loosely in the lower ring halves. Have customer open their eyes.
5. Slide scope back and forth until image fills eyepiece exactly, and no more. Customer feedback is critical at this point – you cannot set the eye relief properly without it.
6. Once image is good, mark location on scope with white grease pencil.
7. Remount scope using grease pencil reference marks and small bullet levels, making sure scope is plumb, square and true to axis of bore and rifle.
8. Use optical collimator and proper spud to bore-sight scope.
9. Have customer zero rifle at a measured 100m using their preferred ammo.

I guarantee you if these steps are taken, you will hit what you are aiming at – provided you do your job and don’t gaff the shot… “buck fever” and all…

This isn’t an effort to showcase my knowledge of All Things Firearms, nor is it meant to diminish your own knowledge – it’s just that I don’t like seeing people with “scope eye” due to improperly mounted scopes.

It also does not take into account folks “hunching up” on the scope. In their excitement, they scooch closer to the scope and when they squeeze one off, get smashed in the orbit of the eye by the eyepiece. Bleeding, black eye, all sorts of bad things… which also unconsciously imprints on people and they start getting “flinchy” or even go so far as to scoot way back from the scope in an effort to not get punched in the face… they don’t even know they’re doing it, most times…

To keep from “hunching up” on the scope, I took a small pebble and duct-taped it to the proper cheek-weld spot on the rifle stock to keep me from scooching up during fast firing…

And, as always, you should have your come-ups and hold-overs/unders printed out and taped to the left side of the rifle stock for easy reference. I used a big old piece of acetate to seal and waterproof it. Some guys used Rite In The Rain paper for extra waterproofing and hand-wrote their come-ups, etc..

For those who do not know or are unfamiliar, think of acetate as a 2 foot wide piece of clear packing tape. Cut to fit.

The wicked flee when none pursueth..." - Proverbs 28:1