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  • #8920
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    Knives are tools and like most tools they come in a large assortment of sizes and shapes designed for different purposes. A lot can go into the design of simple tools so they work well for the job at hand. Below is a collection of various knives collected randomly over 30 years.

    Each knife was selected and purchased with a purpose in mind as I was thinking back on the collection at hand with the knowledge a certain knife might not have performed as well as liked during a particular job. Long knives provide more power when chopping but lack fine control when using the point because of leverage. Short bladed knives are easy to control when placing power or force to the blade and will not turn or twist as easily as a long knife.

    Thick blades are stronger than thinner blades but give up deep cutting ability over a thinner blade. Thick long blades are heaver to carry than thinner shorter blades. Handles should fit your hand well and provide a tacky grip. Smooth handles will not create blisters with prolonged use as fast as a tacky grip but become slippery when wet.

    Starting on the far right:

    Corn Knife:: 20″ blade, 28″ oal, .160 blade thickness. Homemade by a farmer from tool steel. Wooden handle is poorly shaped and smooth, becomes hard to hold on to after extended use. Could use reshaping and a wrap for better griping. Works well against stiff branches or grasses with tension applied.

    Gurka Kukri: 12″ blade 18″ oal .25 blade thickness. Mtech 440 stainless with powder coating.
    Excellent shaped handle made of synthetic rubber providing good grip.Long angled blade engages material and acts like a sickle. Weight forward blade design moves additional mass into cutting area of the blade.

    Bayonet: 6 1/2″ blade 12″ oal .20 blade thickness. Dull blade.

    Bushman: 7″ blade, 12″ oal .10 blade thickness. All steel one piece knife blade and handle.. Smooth metal handle becomes slippery when wet. Blade is light for heavy chopping action against branches. Makes a good large hunting knife and can be used as a spear with the hollow handle. Good review here: http://community.shtfschool.com/forums/topic/knife-review-cold-steel-bushman/

    US Navy Survival Knife: (Japan copy) 4 1/2″ blade, 91/2″ oal. 1.60 blade thickness. Super tough knife with a small saw on the back. Balanced weight. Handle is ridged leather rings and a small hand guard providing good grip. The hand guard will prevent your hand from sliding forward onto the blade.

    Able Hunter: 4 3/4″ blade, 9″ oal. .195 blade thickness. Stainless. Well shaped smooth laminated wood handle with a finger groove. Slippery when wet. Extremely strong blade.

    Mini Bushman: Same design as Bushmen but smaller. 4″ blade, 9″ oal. .95 thickness. All steel one piece knife blade and handle. 4″ blade makes it easy to carry. The blade length gives greater control when using the point for cutting than a longer knife. Not good for chopping due to smaller size and less weight forward.

    Old Hunting Knife: 4 3/4″ blade, 9″ oal. .145 thickness blade. Good handle shape even though it is asymmetrical. Slight palm swell aids comfort. Shape designed for cleaning game.

    Kabar: 3 1/2″ blade, 7″ oal. .10 blade thickness. Leather ring handle with small finger guard. light weight knife designed for small game & birds. Safer than folding knives.

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    #8946
    Jay
    Jay
    Survivalist
    member3

    This is excellent advice. Thanks for posting this! I will add it to the Knife Review Contest post for those who didnt find their favorite knife yet.

    Alea iacta est ("The die has been cast")

    #8957
    Profile photo of freedom
    freedom
    Survivalist
    rnews

    1974, Great collection of knifes. I love knife all my life so I also have many. You are ready for SHTF when it comes to knifes.

    #8966
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    Freedom,
    I have enough knives & tools for shtf. But I’m not ready (yet) otherwhys.

    #9106
    Ancientserpent
    Ancientserpent
    Survivalist
    member1

    Nice collection, I carry the Spyderco Police model daily and have a Kabar and an Old Timer and an old Buck folder with the belt case.

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    #9123
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    http://www.agrussell.com/Steel_Guide/a/73/

    This link will take you to a steel hardness chart on thr AG Russell knife site.

    #9125
    Profile photo of Georgethreshman
    Georgethreshman
    Survivalist
    member2

    One of my bug out kits got wet because I forgot to put contents in garbage bag. My USAF survival knife blade rusted but other stainless steel knife no rust. Used sandpaper to clean most of rust. Sharpened blade with commercial sharpener then whetstone. Now I include sharpener and sandpaper in my kit.
    Best all-around knife USAF Survival knife. Only drawbacks..not
    Stainless and pommel should be wrapped in paracord or leather cord that could be unwound. Prefer serrated edge
    but it doesn’t come with one.

    #9127
    Profile photo of Georgethreshman
    Georgethreshman
    Survivalist
    member2

    Swiss multiple tool stainless knife got wet. Glued handle came off and non-stainless parts rusted. Used Q-tips w/WD-40 & sandpaper to clear rust and spray adhesive for plastic handle.
    TIP include knife sharpener, sandpaper, penetrating oil in kit. Carry more than one type of knife in your kit.
    Steel handles can stick to hands in -0 weather. U can tape handle with electrical tape. Use Ziploc bags in kits for contents. .then all in garbage bag.

    #9348
    Tolik
    Tolik
    Survivalist
    member10

    Aye that ! , I usually have a Leatherman , and a fixed blade on my side . Between the two , it usually is enough to cover most things .

    #9357
    Profile photo of freedom
    freedom
    Survivalist
    rnews

    Tolik, agree a Leatherman is a great tool to have in a SHTF.

    #37339
    Profile photo of dutch_viking
    dutch_viking
    Survivalist
    rreallife

    as many preppers and survivalists i have a couple knives all for a different task .
    in random order :
    – a Mora as a neck knife carbon steel (piece off paracord)
    – A Bushcraft style knife on my belt in a leather sheath carbon steel (with Firesteel)
    – A M.O.D 4 Survival knife (sharp crowbar) in my backpack for chopping hacking digging in emergency also a good bone crusher in a fight quarter inch thick .
    – a sharp boning and fillet knife.
    – a multitool

    #37354
    Profile photo of freedom
    freedom
    Survivalist
    rnews

    dutch_viking, You have a good list. Many of us have more knifes then we can handle. I personally own many just because I like to collect them. Since I was a kid 10 years old I loved just looking at them and cutting a piece of wood.

    #37425
    Profile photo of dutch_viking
    dutch_viking
    Survivalist
    rreallife

    Thank you freedom all i need now is a heavy duty sling shot with ball bearings and a strong compound bow for wild pigs …. keep prepping :)

    #40521
    Profile photo of cpa23@cox.net
    cpa23@cox.net
    Survivalist
    member2

    From experience I find that one tool (read knife) does not cover all contingencies, yet being without at least one knife outdoors is sheer folly.
    Here is what works for me for an extended time and I certainly agree about traveling light.
    1. Spetznatz shovel (with cover) Don’t think so? Try digging a hole with any knife you have. Additionally this shovel is generally light with sharpened edges and the handle can be wrapped in paracord.
    I keep one in my car/truck and it has helped me out of some jams.
    Oh yeah, you will get into jams too. Just accept it and adapt.
    You would be surprised how useful this tool/weapon can be if you ever carry one.
    2.A kukri of some kind. (I found this not so necessary if I have a Spentzatz shovel with me.) A kukri is a proven design throughout the ages. Generally these knives are heavy yet necessary for what they can do. The additional small knives that accompany are very useful. Not good for children or older people due to the weight but definitely useful and formidable if you can handle. Check around as there are some lighter kukris like Kabar.
    3. Mora field/neck knife. Very practical, light, handy and useful for many daily tasks… as is carrying the
    4. Victorinox Spartan model Swiss army knife.
    Leatherman has been suggested but I find not much useful if the above are available.
    Numbers 1,3 and 4 above would be my minimum carry for any extended stay with #2 as a backup if I could carry.
    Hope this helps.

    #40525
    Profile photo of namelus
    namelus
    Survivalist
    member7

    my carry out

    You can get parkerized blades no need for crappy stainless for blades. SS does not hold an edge as well a good spring steel blade is much more resilient. you should only have 1 true knife with you rest of the blade should be part of other tools. make sure your main knife has at least a 3/16 thick full tang, less likely to bend or break when you abuse it.

    only specialized small blade should be a scalpel or straight razor for field work. yes at home base you can have 20 blades not worth the weight unless going for special purpose.

    you always need an axe. it is a tool and weapon. multi tool a good one full sized has as smaller knife saw and pliers good enough for most small jobs i have a bearded short haft axe that i use with a hammer end on it, i made it for me it has a handle made of braided wire with carbon fiber wrap to absorb the shock.. handle grip is of cross woven para cord and is sand gritted with ridges for grip if para coded is used. it also has an eye hook on bottom for looking cord through. with proper swing you can go through 4 -6 inch trees one swipe. It is throw able with deadly impact.

    only 2 of the group carry shovels, i dont though they are useful.

    the things two of the others do is have leather bracers with long throwing pins think 12 inch 3/8 thick sharpened stakes when they are in the bracer it can be used to block blade attack ( both are martial artists) and convenient storage of bladed items.

    seen them kill a boar at 20 paces with a head shot with the throw stakes.

    i would encourage all of you to learn how to make knives by simple method of grinding away excess material. Do it now while if you mess up you can make another. Start with leaf springs and grinder the biggest two things to worry about are dont over heat and get the cutting angles right. use a “guide block” to get angles right for blade. handles well you can make from anything from tape to fancy like antlers the handle while important is nothing compared to the blade.

    leaf springs can be bought at local auto scrap yard for next to free i just got 300 lb of spring steel for less that $25.

    If you need reason to get grinder… wife can always use a new sharp kitchen knife….

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