December 14, 2014 at 4:11 am #31913
<div class=”d4p-bbp-quote-title”>RSSwizard wrote:</div>Saw a video on youtube, the guy knows what he’s doing.<br>
Takes a break action shotgun, takes a shotgun shell and cuts the plastic off. Knocks the spent primer out of it it, seats a new primer in it.<br>
Inserts it in the gun. Muzzle Loads. Fires. Repeats.
Personally I would think you could do that without cutting the plastic off, in which case you’ve got the powder, shot, and wads all self contained as if you HAD reloaded the shotgun shell. Because you essentially have, even if its a fairly crummy reload, because a break action shotgun is somewhat forgiving on that note.
Still I think even better would be to take a break action .45-70 and do the same thing. Because it’s rifled, and it’ll accept just about any kind of .45 slug or less.
A revolver is also good for muzzleloading/caseless use, because In the old days the colt cavalry revolver was reloaded that way. They used crisco to seal the bullet in (so you only need one wad, not two).
I’ve seen the video with Dave Canterbury using his H&RTopper, single shot, breach loading, cartridge firing, 12ga shotgun as a muzzleloader. Too me, that is just pushing the envelope on nostalgia. Those back in the day moved to blackpowder loaded cartridges and away from muzzleloading as fast as they could.
If you are nostalgic for blackpowder, why cut apart a usable shell to muzzleload the weapon when you can simply load that shell, and many more, with blackpowder? Weapons designed for smokeless powder are built to take 2x to 3x the pressures that blackpowder can produce. Canterbury even got Short Lane to produce a blackpowder muzzle loading kit for a break action shotgun, which is a solution in search of a problem.
The trick to loading blackpowder is to pack it tight and not leave it loose with an air space in the powder area of the cartridge. Many cartridges, like 12ga and .45-70 were designed as blackpowder cartridges and their case length and shape are a legacy of that. Plastic shotgun shells can be reloaded with blackpowder the same as the old paper shells, and with the latest generation of modern plastic shells (the plastic has gotten better over the years) you can often reload them several times. Roll crimping shotgun shells for blackpowder, the same as the old paper cartridges, is recommended as hot burning blackpowder tends to be harsh on fold crimps.
You can generally get a good guess when a cartridge is either a legacy blackpowder cartridge (.45-70, .45 Colt, 12ga) or a smokeless cartridge designed from a blackpowder parent cartridge (.30-30Win) by it’s having either straight walls or shoulders that have a long, shallow slope, plus a rim that protrudes out past the side of the case body. The body shape of those cartridges makes it easier to totally fill all voids with powder and compress it a bit when seating the bullet.
Bottleneck cartridges with abruptly angled shoulders and rimless cases (rims don’t protrude past the side of the case) are a product of the smokeless era, as are autoloading weapons which tend not to function well with the hotter burning, lower power, very dirty blackpowder.December 14, 2014 at 1:57 pm #31933
Thanks Vep, you put that into the proper perspective.December 15, 2014 at 9:57 pm #32138
For those reloading for shotguns, I’d recommend taking a look at the molds from Sharp Shooter USA.
I try and keep of my gear as compact and as portable as possible. All of my reloading tools, including those for shotgun ammo, are in a single .50cal ammo can. In a separate .50cal can is my casting gear.
I wanted to be able to cast both 00 buckshot and #4 buckshot. Lee makes a separate mold for each, and I like Lee molds. However, they are expensive and take up a fair amount of room.
A while back I found an excellent mold from Sharp Shooter USA that is compact and it’s about the same size as my 1oz Lee 12ga slug mold. On one side it will cast ten 00 buckshot and on the other it will cast ten #4 buckshot. I like the quality and it’s easy to use. The sprue holes are easy to hand pour with a dipper. The handles get a bit hot so wear welding gloves or attach larger/longer handles.December 19, 2014 at 3:19 am #32439
I found a good bolg on “Building a Furnace for the Home Foundry” http://www.rotblattsculpture.com/Articles/buildingabronzec.html
We discussed casting bullets from copper, zinc & other metals. This furnace will deliver enough heat to melt 20lbs. of metals.
Do not use a propane tank or any other tank that was used for flammable material to make your furnace.January 10, 2016 at 1:16 pm #46580
Here something new in reloading; 22LR.
I always thought reloading 22lr should be possible but a solution for the primer mix was problematic. Now it’s here:February 24, 2016 at 12:54 pm #47489
This is a great article for prepers that become low on ammo in a post modern era. Reloading in Restricted Circumstances
By Dean Weingarten
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