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  • #58465
    Profile photo of sledjockey
    sledjockey
    Bushcrafter
    member8

    Yup…. I went ahead and grabbed one because the price was too good to pass up. It was one of their models with the Navy style (poly) lower, was used and barely shot. Even the claw mount markings (the previous owner only used this with a scope on a claw mount) were barely visible and not even indented yet.

    So my question is this: Other than putting on a rail and swapping out the lower to a steel one, what other upgrades should I be looking at for this thing?

    http://ageofdecadence.com

    #58490
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    I have a steel lower, if you are interested.
    Will have to compare the attachments but we can come to a deal I am sure.

    Honestly, there’s not a lot to do, I prefer a better brake, but the thread limits the choices.
    I’m odd, I go back and forth on the fixed vs collapsing stock on these, but with the price of the collapsible being what it is as well as the weight, I’d probably stick to fixed.

    Night sight front insert.
    Decent sling.

    Typically, they like to be a little dirty.
    I can’t explain but every HK rifle I have had, liked to be wet (oil) and a couple or more rounds under the belt for utter reliability.

    Magazines, remember that the HK mags were thought of as a consumable or disposable. Buy em cheap, stack em deep and when they start having issues, junk the body, especially the aluminum ones.

    #58491
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    PS., get the claw mount, most of the rail/mount adapters are junk.
    You can find Hensoldt scopes already in the claw mounts that will outlast both of us.

    #58493
    Profile photo of sledjockey
    sledjockey
    Bushcrafter
    member8

    I appreciate the info and am interested in the lower. I have 60 days to pick it up. When I grab it I can take pics and measurements to check fit.

    I wasn’t sure about the claw mounts, so that really helps.

    What do you know about case buffers and defectors?

    http://ageofdecadence.com

    #58578
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    Buffers help with case mouth dents and damage, but if you aren’t going to reload for it, all you are doing is saving the paint.
    Typically, the fired case comes out hard enough to bounce off and protect your right flank.

    Pick up a spare bolt buffer, it’s in the front of the stock and will eventually wear out.

    https://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/HK-G3-BUFFER-COMPLETE-181p2051.htm

    The little cocking lever spring that holds the lever down is another part I’d grab, it’s annoying at best when they break.

    https://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/HK-G3-HK33-SPRING-FOR-COCKING-HANDLE-NEW-72p1995.htm

    #58579
    Profile photo of sledjockey
    sledjockey
    Bushcrafter
    member8

    Buffers help with case mouth dents and damage, but if you aren’t going to reload for it, all you are doing is saving the paint.
    Typically, the fired case comes out hard enough to bounce off and protect your right flank.

    Pick up a spare bolt buffer, it’s in the front of the stock and will eventually wear out.

    https://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/HK-G3-BUFFER-COMPLETE-181p2051.htm

    The little cocking lever spring that holds the lever down is another part I’d grab, it’s annoying at best when they break.

    https://www.robertrtg.com/store/pc/HK-G3-HK33-SPRING-FOR-COCKING-HANDLE-NEW-72p1995.htm

    I will order a couple of those parts to keep on hand. Thank you….

    As for the case buffer, I do reload and was actually concerned enough about my brass that I was seriously considering just running steel case through this rifle if I didn’t find a solution. As a matter of fact I run a Dillon 550, a couple Lee presses (1 turret, 1 classic, 1 .50 BMG) and have 2 MEC shotshell reloaders. I have a small fortune in reloading stuff….. Anyway: Since I will be going with a claw mount I should be able to get one of those snap on type case buffers rather than have to get a deflector soldered/welded on, right? Is that the best way to go?

    http://ageofdecadence.com

    #58625
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    My last 91, I just glued some sheet rubber to the side and peeled it off when I sold it.
    Same for the 770.

    Steel case, not fond of in the gun.
    The brass is supposed to expand into the flutes, then the gas pushes back to release the case. Steel doesn’t have the same spring back that brass does, it seems to lock in harder.
    At the same time, some commercial brass can be too soft and will have issues if you choose the wrong powder, the case will still be adhering to the chamber walls when the extractor is trying to extract the case. You end up with a really bent rim.

    Part two, the bolt face will leave a ring around the primer, it’s designed for the case head to set back, creating a seal to prevent primer loss or leakage.
    You can easily remove this with a chamfer tool, go easy you only have to do it the first time.

    Funny thing, my old 770, same load, fresh brass vs once fired, the SD went from 15 to 7.

    For the best results, stick to 7.62×51 NATO loading data regarding powder, primers and pressure.
    Commercial load data and pressure designed for bolt guns can give issues.

    Avoid Hornady “Light Magnum” loads.

    #58765
    Profile photo of Brulen
    Brulen
    Survivalist
    member9

    I ‘ve heard the 1200 meter 3 gen rear sight is nice. But you would need the bipod. They have a nice retractable bipod that fits into the front handguard. You might be able to get a hk brass catcher for one, with a lota luck. But it still has hk roller quality thats hard to beat. Worth the money.
    And I forgot to mention, there are hk 5 round steel mags.

    • This reply was modified 1 month ago by Profile photo of Brulen Brulen.
    • This reply was modified 1 month ago by Profile photo of Brulen Brulen.
    #60203
    Profile photo of Brulen
    Brulen
    Survivalist
    member9

    I guess the price was to good to be true. Sort,of like going to,a jukeyard and trying to build a new 91 out of old parts. Looks great but might as well have been made,in afganistan. Hey SJ. You bought an uber instead of a benz? Well that happens, a lot, I suspect with guns. and they say also most of the gold sold on the www is fake. Update?

    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 5 days ago by Profile photo of Brulen Brulen.
    #60312
    Profile photo of sledjockey
    sledjockey
    Bushcrafter
    member8

    I have the rifle on layaway and am making the second payment this week. After doing a lot of research I am even more pleased with my find.

    When I went in a couple weeks ago for some reloading components I asked for visitation. While looking at it with a scope I can see that it really was barely fired. I doubt it has more that a few hundred rounds down it. The owner of the shop said that the guy picked it up and started doing some upgrades (cocking lever, trigger pack, stock) then decided that he didn’t like the roller lock. This guy was a friend of the owner and talked the owner into using this PTR as a trade in for a FAL.

    Either way, I think I am coming out well. The old pieces come with the rifle as do a double handful of magazines. Since this sale was for his buddy, the shop owner is giving me 15% off parts for this rifle…… Still more expensive than online in most cases, but it is still a nice gesture. I might take him up on the offer if he can get me a G2-RS Fab Defense hand guard. Still not sure what stock I want.

    http://ageofdecadence.com

    • This reply was modified 2 weeks, 3 days ago by Profile photo of sledjockey sledjockey.
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