March 4, 2015 at 10:10 am #37924
I’m aware Mora have a great reputation for entry level knives, but I was wondering, in line with the ‘you get what you pay for’ concept of equipment purchasing, what would you consider the ‘minimum’ price for a good quality, dependable knife to be?March 4, 2015 at 2:08 pm #37936
I think you have to start with whats the best and then decide what you can afford to pay.
First link is information about blade steels.
Second link is to knives made with S30V steel blades.
Of course there is a lot more to a knife then just the blade material.March 4, 2015 at 3:00 pm #37938
What happened to Toby’s post? I only see 74’s…..
I am a bit of a knife fiend and definitely have many thoughts on the subject. Here are the things I think about when looking for a knife:
1) What do I plan on using it for. EDC knives should be at a steeper angle (just a touch) than knives used for cutting meat and such. Those should be at a more shallow angle.
2) Hollow ground blades have their place, but not in your pocket or for heavy use. Hollow ground blades tend to break or chip in heavy use. There are exceptions, but you get the idea.
3) Type of steel is important. Depending on what you expect to do with the knife should depend on the type of steel you are looking for. Want to use it with a firesteel? Carbon steel blade is nice. Want to pry and use it for batoning wood for fire prep? Tool steel is nice for that…. Match the steel type with intended use.
4) Most production knife companies are good for EDC, but if you want something specific such as a bushcrafting knife you will most likely end up getting a custom. Don’t think that an EESE will perform the same as an Adventure Sworn custom for bushcraft use. It just isn’t so. Again…. What do you want the knife for?
You can get by with $100 for a good, solid EDC knife. I personally carry a $230 Benchmark for EDC and have several $50-$100 knives laying around my truck/home for backup. There are several backup bushcraft knives around that range at home, in packs and in my truck as well. Ironically I also have a couple $20 Morakniv Classics laying around as well for general camp uses and as a neck knife. Again, match the knife to the intended use.
Lastly, don’t expect to have 1 knife to do everything. Solid EDC drop points are horrible at certain tasks while full tang fixed blades are better for other uses. If you are looking to upgrade from China steel to better quality, don’t be scared to divide tasks among several knives and get blades for specific purposes.
http://ageofdecadence.comMarch 4, 2015 at 3:23 pm #37940
In case anyone else can’t see my original post, here it is again:
I’m aware Mora have a great reputation for entry level knives, but I was wondering, in line with the ‘you get what you pay for’ concept of equipment purchasing, what would you consider the ‘minimum’ price for a good quality, dependable knife to be?
74 – Agreed and there will also always be the ‘bargains’ to be found, but in generally what would you expect to pay for a solid, quality knife?
Sledjockey, some nice details, thanks for sharing.March 4, 2015 at 3:43 pm #37943
Again, what were you wanting to use the knife for?
Morakniv, particularly the Classics, are great neck knives. Just make yourself a different sheath. They do feather/fuzz sticks really well, sharpen up quickly through stropping on the back of a leather belt, and are carbon steel so you can square off the spine and get sparks really easily. There are few knives better for this type use….
If you want to baton and do heavy bush work, I suggest a custom. Scandi grinds are great if you plan on doing much wood working. Convex make great choppers. Just get good tool steel for either one. If you don’t want to pay for a custom, you can get a good quality Scandi grind for wood/camp/basic fire prep in a Helle knife line like the Viking, Temagami, or Odel models. They are essentially better quality Moraknives that can take a lot more beating and some moderate batoning. They are full tang, but are hidden so there are weak points.
For fighting knives, I like EESE or old school Ka-bar USMC knives. The EESE Junglas is a great, large knife that can be used for chopping and fighting purposes. The EESE-4 is a good sized, fixed blade that is also a good field/fighting knife. IMO……
Hunting? S30V steel drop point Gerbers are good and have a good grind that allow for gutting and skinning in a single knife. They are a little lacking in boning, but the Morakniv Classic does that fairly well.
These suggestions help?
Lastly, I have paid as much as $560 for a custom Matt Paul and as little as $12 for a Morakniv. It all really goes back to what are you wanting to use the knife for and then I can give you a good range.
http://ageofdecadence.comMarch 4, 2015 at 3:48 pm #37945
This is a bit of a research question for something I’m currently working on. So it is less looking for a specific knife recommendation for me, more ‘getting a feel’ for what price people do/are prepared to budget for a ‘good’ knife…?
Hope that makes sense
The $12-560 ‘range’ also helps massively, thanks!March 4, 2015 at 4:23 pm #37947
Your last response helps immensely….
EDC: Usually around $100-$150 for a good folder. I have a few $50 folders, but they don’t hold up as well as a good Benchmade. Mine is a model 581 around $230 retail.
Neck: I get by with $12 Morakniv for most things, but mostly use either $130-$180 Helle or my $400 Adventure Sworn. For daily use necker (running around the house or town), I do have a couple $100 customs that are about the size of trout/bird/patch knives. I have a Skookum Bushtool on order that will probably become my go-to neck knife. The SBT is a 4 year wait and around $250-$300 or $600 if you find one for sale used.
Chopper/Bushcrafting: I have a Matt Paul custom that was $560 and the Adventure Sworn around $400. I also have a Wolf Creek Forge that is around $250-$300 that I keep in my truck and carry when backpacking. Got a couple Condors that I don’t recommend except for entry level use and a couple Ka-bar Beckers that I gave to my son at around $100-$150. The Beckers are good midrange bushcrafters.
Field: EESE – $130-$200 depending on model. Don’t get an Ontario RAT clone. Junk compared to an actual EESE. I also carry a current issue style Ka-bar in my truck for diving/field/BOB purposes.
This should give you a better, purpose versus price comparison.
http://ageofdecadence.comMarch 4, 2015 at 8:04 pm #37968
I have a lot of knives that cost around $35.00. I abuse them so spending more on a high quality knife is silly for me. They get dull becuase of the way I use them so I sharpen them often. If I was using an expensive knife it would get dull just as fast as a cheaper knife and I would have to sharpen it as well. Some of these knives I’ve had for many years and I haven’t broken them so feel like It’s a good choice. I have a beautiful custom that is a closet queen, I guess I should take it out and use it.March 4, 2015 at 9:11 pm #37973
There’s a great deal of argument that goes into blade make, cost and styles.
One product from a manufacturer may be junk, the next pure gold.
The $12 Moras have their place, especially where the knife will get broken or lost (Boy Scouts). And for a knife that will get abused, a Mora or Opinel are good choices, who wants to use a Rinaldi or Simonich custom to spark a metal match?
At the same time, that custom, my Largents for example, wil hold up to use that will kill cheap knives. My ‘cheap’ Largent was @$125 and can break down several deer or elk before the edge needs any attention except getting the fat off the edge.
My favorite Largent $225+ (its been a while) was used to baton firewood in a camp last fall, cut dinner in the kitchen for a week and still was shaving sharp for hunting season.
My war bag contains a Benchmade fixed blade (reviewed here elsewhere) that’s done everything asked of it and more. For the price @$200 its steep in my opinion but well worth it. Its handled things that have broken KaBars for example.
Fixed knives, i tend to be willing to spend more as they will generally be used harder. Full tang is the rule but there are exceptions, the Camillius Q225 ‘Quartermaster’ knife (WWII) is not full tang but you’ll be hard pressed to hurt one. Thats why they were so highly sought after, especially after breaking KaBars in the Pacific.
I don’t like to spend more than $200 on a blade, I have, I just don’t like it. Especially since they are a consumable item.
Folders, I tend to go for the cheaper models, $70 or less. Having lost or misplaced more than I care to remember, a $40 Kershaw hurts less than a Benchmade. A Spyderco Police model was once abandoned, I just didn’t want to get it back, it fell in a portolet.
I hope whoever cleaned that out enjoys his find.
A $40 Gerber Bolt Action was bought nearly 30 years ago, it still sees weekly use. I showed it off at Shot Show last year, it was older than the young lady at the Gerber booth, she had never seen one that didn’t have the blade exchange feature.
My old Benchmade folders, @$100, some 20 years ago. Beat up, reground, they have been an amazing bargain. I just haven’t found a new model to replace them, all the new ones are too ‘ninja’.
Flat grind, hollow grind, drop or clip point, full tang, riveted, pinned or screw mounted scales? It varies from knife to knife.
I don’t have deep pockets. Many of my best and brightest were bought when I was flush. And a number of these have been handed down to my kids so they have at least one good knife.
Certain ‘off brands’ have served well, Katz knives for example, I have two left, they needed the edge angle changed but other than that have been surprisingly high quality and well built.
The Lion King model while not a full tang, has what is the most comfortable handle of all my knives, and that’s saying something.
Personal choices, $30-80 for a pocket knife. Its gonna get abused, lost, borrowed and not returned, better to have a couple of the same knife for the cost. The Kershaw folders may not be as tough as the Benchmades, but I can buy 4 for the price. (Used Glock vs new high end 1911)
$50-200 nominally for a decent factory fixed blade. Unless I run across a steal, I don’t expect to see the low end of the spectrum anytime soon.
$150-??? For a good custom, and they’re worth it, if you have the cash.
Cost doesn’t always explain it all. For years, I used an USAF survival knife, yup the then $15 surplus knife. The blade while a bit hard for my tastes now held up to all the abuse a Boy Scout and budding survivalist could come up with. Today my son has that exact same knife thanks to my grandfather, mine having been stolen years ago.
Much like Selco’s AK bayonet, it just works.
For years I was a bit of a blade snob, now not so much.
A good 4-5″ fixed blade, a good @3.5″ folder, and I’m happy, at least until I see something else that I ‘need’.
Like many, I oddly tend to spend more on the belt knife that normally sees more abuse and damage, yet less use, rather than the folder that will see more use and is likely to be there in the hour of need.March 4, 2015 at 9:12 pm #37974
I just bought a Solo Scientific Solar knife.
Good quality heavy Al handle secondary use as a firestarter. I had to sharpen it. 420HC stainless steel. Removable handles. Nice balance. Very reflective on the fire starter side. Leather sheath.
The price was $55 but it just went to $71.
Some knives say buy me, and you either love it or hate it.March 4, 2015 at 10:53 pm #37981
one thing i would consider toby is how may knives you need, learning to make a blade using mass removal ie grinding and sanding with some cutting/drilling may be a alternative.
you can get the belt sander and other tools at a garage sale get the steel from leaf springs from a scrap yard.
you can make 10 knives for 150 sell 2 and get your money back. plus it is a good skill to have. lots of you tube videos on how to do it. just takes practice to get good and make busse quality knives. the trick is in the hardening.March 4, 2015 at 11:13 pm #37985
Hey! Is anyone up for a knife making contest? Just for fun to see what people make. Each knife can be a documented post with design and methods pictures of the progress, etc, etc. Anyone interested?March 5, 2015 at 12:32 am #37993
I feel I may have phrased my initial question badly. I’m saying Mora are good, to a point… So what price range do you think is the ‘next level up’ for higher quality knives that can be truly relied upon not too fail?March 5, 2015 at 6:42 am #38001
I feel I may have phrased my initial question badly. I’m saying Mora are good, to a point… So what price range do you think is the ‘next level up’ for higher quality knives that can be truly relied upon not too fail?
But me, I’m cheap. $50 for an AK bayonet with a bakelite handle.
working my way down from a Fairbairn Sykes knife.March 6, 2015 at 3:25 am #38064
Entry level fixed $50-90nz
Entry level folder $90-150nz
Second tier – $160-280nz approx
Personally, I’m not rich and would rather have several $50-100 range dependable knives that I know I WILL carry.
If too expensive I won’t carry or use them as I’m too worried about breaking or loosing them.
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