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  • #27897
    Profile photo of sledjockey
    sledjockey
    Bushcrafter
    member8

    Guy acrossnthe street has a .357 S&W Mod 13-1. I don’t know a lot about them, but from what I have seen these are old cop guns. It is in decent shape such as around an 85% grade.

    Anyone know anything else about them?

    http://ageofdecadence.com

    #27899
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    Great guns, K frame, .357 Mag, was the FBI gun for years.

    Stick to limited use of full power magnums, the forcing cone will last much longer and the gun won’t be beat to death.

    If you’re gonna shoot the 125gr jhp, full power, make sure the forcing cone is free of lead beforehand. Its a major reason for so many forcing cone splits.

    They’re basically the heavy barrel Model 10, with a slightly longer cylinder and the appropriate heat treatment.

    For some in the CCW world, this is the optimum choice of size and power. Especially the 3″ version.

    #27900
    Profile photo of sledjockey
    sledjockey
    Bushcrafter
    member8

    Nice. Thank you for the information.

    I was thinking about getting a surplus pilot chest holster and use it instead of my .44 when out in the woods. My .44 is SA only and the action on this S&W is really smooth. I have been very surprised by this pistol thus far.

    http://ageofdecadence.com

    #27901
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    Sled, I really like S&W revolvers and have owned models 10, 27, 29, 57 & 60. Every once in a while I have run into a Smith that needed work. As Whirly says they can be beat when subjected to lots of hot loads. Check the timing of the cylinder to make certain it functions correctly. Place your free hand thumb on the cylinder and apply a little friction as you pull the trigger in double action, dry fire the gun. Sometimes the timing hand is damaged and it will skip. Check the crane retaining pin hole in the frame. It should be perfectly round. If the hole is elongated vertically the gun has seen a lot of heavy use. Check the fore and aft of the cylinder when closed. Make sure the cylinder doesn’t rub the back of the barrel. There should be a minimal amount of end shake. There is a + – gap dimension but I would have to look it up. The barrel gap should be perfectly even top to bottom. Look at the side plate screw for damage. A buggered screw means the wrong guy was inside the gun.

    #27903
    Profile photo of freedom
    freedom
    Survivalist
    rnews

    I own the Smith & Wesson Model 640-3 Hammerless .357 Mag Revolver which I carry all the time. I love my S & W, great gun.

    #27910
    Profile photo of sledjockey
    sledjockey
    Bushcrafter
    member8

    74…

    Awesome tips. Thank you very much. I will definitely take a little closer look when I get home.

    Here are some pictures of it. I hope it helps you guys to see the condition.

    http://ageofdecadence.com

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    #27915
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    FYI, the 13-1 dates to 1974-1977.
    Adopted by the FBI @’74 also.

    #27917
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    Sled, The cylinder barrel gap should be .003 to .006. It’s good to check because it can show you if the crane is tweeked. It should be the same measuring from both sides. Also check the muzzle crown for any dents, they will throw accuracy off. I find the factory grips to be a little small, and I like the shock absorption of a Pachmayr or Hogue grip shooting full power loads.

    #27922
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    I’ve been fooled by outside appearances more than once, cars women & guns. They all need testing to see if they operate as advertised.

    #27923
    Profile photo of freedom
    freedom
    Survivalist
    rnews

    74, cars and guns sure can fool you by the outside appearances and a little test will tell you if they operate as advertised but my friend women can be test every you want and still fool you!

    Women where born to fool us men, we men where born to be fooled by women.

    #27941
    Profile photo of undeRGRönd
    undeRGRönd
    Survivalist
    member8

    Dad has a nice 13-1, 4″ barrel. It was my first 357 I ever shot, and it is very sweet!
    For those new to the 357, he always loaded and clocked it for 3 shots of 38 Special, followed by 3 – 357 Magnums :D
    Very Accurate Weapon!

    "ROGUE ELECTRICIAN" Hoping to be around to re-energize the New World.....

    Cogito, ergo armatus sum

    #28099
    Profile photo of sledjockey
    sledjockey
    Bushcrafter
    member8

    Thank you for all the help. I picked this up for a fair price for this area and am happy with the purchase. Your information really helped a lot.

    http://ageofdecadence.com

    #28338
    Profile photo of lester
    lester
    Survivalist
    member1

    The S&W double action is true gunmakers art. The mechanism is complex and highly fitted.

    I have broken 2 S&Ws somehow. One a Brand New model 29 with maybe 2 boxes of factory loads through it, another a used model 66 that was a cop trade-in gun. Both broke their hand or ratchet, The cylinder stop would not engage and the cylinder just spun freely. Might want to have a pistolsmith look over your S&W and if it shows mechanism parts wear, have new parts fitted. Compared to a Ruger, S&W are complex with many more parts.

    Not too fond of the fixed-sight guns with tiny notch for rear sight. If you expect your sights to be “on” find the load that fills your need, is on target and stick with it. Can enlarge the notch a bit to shift impact, but not really a viable fix.

    Not much on the .357mag for defense. Takes a lot of practice to shoot double-action well and a 4″ .357 is not all that powerful. Most velocities are published using 8″ barreled guns. I would handload and use the heaviest silhouette bullets with flatpoint that I could find or maybe go with the RCBS 200gr flatnose bullet mold cast from wheelweights. But maybe you are a guy who can empty the cylinder in 2 seconds and keep all your loads in a 2″ circle at 10yds? With moderate handloads or non-+p .38s it is relatively easy, just compromises the velocity threshold the .357 needs to make its power.

    If this is a main defense handgun choice, might be better as trade material on weapon chambered for a 10mm auto or larger handgun ctg. Probably have lots of guns though.. enjoy; but check-out the mechanism under the sideplate!

    #28340
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    Lester welcome to the forum.

    “Not much on the .357mag for defense…….Snip……. a 4″ .357 is not all that powerful.” Lester

    Where did you come across this notion? You might be right if comparing a 357 to a 454 Casull, a 50 S&W, or a 44 Mag but other than that it holds it own pretty well. As far as really viable carry guns for self defence the 357 is king of the hill in the record books.

    #28352
    Profile photo of undeRGRönd
    undeRGRönd
    Survivalist
    member8

    This could be my buddy IRL “lester” who traded me a 375 Magnum 4″ S&W for an old car once…
    The gun was worth more than the car! :D

    "ROGUE ELECTRICIAN" Hoping to be around to re-energize the New World.....

    Cogito, ergo armatus sum

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