Viewing 9 posts - 31 through 39 (of 39 total)
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  • #24054
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    Lets just say that the work estimates on Philippine 1911s are higher than for a Colt or Springer.

    If you want a double stack 1911, start with a Caspian Arms frame and slide. Between their custom features, fitting the minor parts yourself and some judicious purchases, you can have it 85-90+% done before a gunsmith finishes it. And you’ll have a gun that isn’t full of MIM junk.

    I mentioned the Cimarron 1911 I had briefly, in a previous post and what it needed to be right, and it was out of the box original.
    Same factory, same specs.

    Sorry but 1911s are not a place where cheaping out pays off.
    Much like good boots, buy junk, you’ll be paying again.

    #24060
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews
    #24063
    Profile photo of undeRGRönd
    undeRGRönd
    Survivalist
    member8

    And you’ll have a gun that isn’t full of MIM junk.

    Or a Kimber?
    Too much MIM for those as well, I have read

    "ROGUE ELECTRICIAN" Hoping to be around to re-energize the New World.....

    Cogito, ergo armatus sum

    #24074
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    74: The 97 is a great gun, just a bit large for most people.

    UG: The Kimbers are full of MIM parts, I end up junking the back end when doing work on defensive guns.

    #24079
    Profile photo of matt76
    matt76
    Survivalist
    member8

    Whirli what’s your take on Rock Island 1911s. I have heard a lot of people are using them for a base and then upgrading various parts to come out with some really nice, accurate pistols. I bought one in 9mm here a while back for 350 and was thinking of tinkering with it to learn how to work on 1911s. Any suggestions on whether it is worth the time or what part to start with?

    #24084
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    The Rock’s are basically the same gun as all the other Philippine 1911’s, including the Cimarron 1911 I mentioned. They’re all made in the same factory, the same assembly lines.

    As you’d be replacing a number of the parts, why pay for them twice?

    For my use, I’d be looking at a Caspian frame and slide. Have the rails ‘nitrided’, that way they are pre-fitted and will wear practically forever. After that, a Storm Lake barrel, decent parts for the back end, etc. You’ll have a bit more in it than your cheapo 1911 but it will be a lifetime gun.

    #24085
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    Whirly,
    What other frames and slides do you like? (1911)

    #24089
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    For a ‘scratch’ build, I like the Caspians. They’ve been the highest quality for the price.
    The Essex frames are okay, but not a well done.
    The Wilson Combat’s, STI’s and such are just too expensive for most people.

    In a built ‘builder’ gun, I consider the Springfield Armory Mil-Spec the base or basic model to get.
    Anything less needs too much work and too many parts to fix.

    I prefer to build on Colt’s when I can, the quality is about the best across the board right now.
    Some of the 70’s series guns were sketchy but since the 80’s the quality has really come up.

    #24095
    Profile photo of undeRGRönd
    undeRGRönd
    Survivalist
    member8

    Whirlibird wrote:

    UG: The Kimbers are full of MIM parts, I end up junking the back end when doing work on defensive guns.

    I had heard that, and read about it. Thanks for verifying the MIMber “status”
    (I’m not a fan of “pretty guns” anyway)

    "ROGUE ELECTRICIAN" Hoping to be around to re-energize the New World.....

    Cogito, ergo armatus sum

Viewing 9 posts - 31 through 39 (of 39 total)

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