Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
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  • #37661
    Robin
    Robin
    Survivalist
    member8

    Having moved to a new location I found myself needing to come up with new SHTF plans. So, I bought a repo 14×24 metal building I am turning into a structure I can have moved if needed. Started off planning for a “Tiny House” on a bumper pull or gooseneck trailer. I paid the same price for the building as a trailer frame heavy enough to haul a Tiny House.
    So, the inside of the bldg is bare. I am planning on a raised, false floor about 1 ft deep. The underfloor areas will be turned into hidden storage “bins.” Since any storage area (closets etc) will be hard to build in I plan on several things to hide my weapons, food and other preps. One idea is hidden storage in furniture. Most of my current furniture will be sold or given away. This is one company I have Googled. Know nothing of the company.

    http://njconceal.com/

    Any ideas or experience with concealment furniture?
    Robin

    #37665
    Tolik
    Tolik
    Survivalist
    member10

    Thats cool and all , and it will work for the average burglar , dirtbag , or zombie looking around . But probably wont against Law enforcement , drug smugglers are some of the most crafty people on earth when it comes to hiding things , and their opposite numbers in law enforcement have seen it all .

    #37668
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    I agree with Tolik. It would take a special built-in to fool LE, however I see no reason to “invite” them into your dwelling.

    #37673
    Profile photo of freedom
    freedom
    Survivalist
    rnews

    Also agree with Tolik on this.

    #37675
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    As one who has searched for contraband, I have a number of ideas, but without an idea of layout/structure its hard to say what will fit or work.

    Obviously underfloor is out because of storage.
    Are there rafters/crossbeams you could box in?
    What kind of heat? Small wood burners mounted over a metal plate can keep people from looking under the plate.
    PVC pipe underneath can carry many items, just offset the threaded caps to open from opposite sides. Double cap one or two and cut an opening on top that can only be accessed from inside. A little white electrical tape will cover the saw cut nicely.

    One friend took a crate of Nagants and hid them in plain sight.

    He took an old glass table top and siliconed it onto the top of the open Nagant crate. The rifles still racked, painted with flowers and peace signs using day glo water based paint. The crate lined with excelsior, it covered ammo belts and boxes of ammo.

    A second crate under the first, concealed much of his gear,
    And right on the side of the upper (rifle) box, stickers that said, “In case of emergency, break glass”.

    A Boulder hippy, he entertained a number of anti’s, eating dinner inches above “real guns” they just thought was nouveaux art.

    #37676
    Robin
    Robin
    Survivalist
    member8

    Now that is what I am talking about!
    The walls are 2×4’s on 16″ center. Roof trusses are 2×16 on 24″ center. In the area next to the door I am also building a built-in rifle safe. There will be a Murphy style queen bed on one wall. It will have a built-in desk counter top. This is where I will put my Ham radios. The desk-top will be mounted so it will swing out of the way when you pull the queen bed down from the wall.
    I am looking at having a couple pieces of furniture around the insides that will hold shotguns and handguns. The long guns like Mosin’s will go into the built-in wall safes.
    Robin

    #37677
    Profile photo of freedom
    freedom
    Survivalist
    rnews

    All great ideas. The rafters/crossbeams are good and if there is one made of steel beam that can fit a weapon inside the beam even better since the beam is made of steel it is hard to find with a metal detector. I say anywhere that has metal framing is very good. So if your house has metal studs and not wood then you can put a weapon in a metal stud and then it is very hard to find. You plaster the wall and only you know were the weapon is.

    #37683
    Profile photo of matt76
    matt76
    Survivalist
    member8

    Here is another idea.
    Tactical Walls Concealment Shelves – YouTube

    #37684
    Profile photo of matt76
    matt76
    Survivalist
    member8
    #37689
    Profile photo of Brulen
    Brulen
    Survivalist
    member9

    The under the bed gun safe is a favorite of mine. It can be a pull out drawer or a lift up / move the mattress top entry. Building it yourself though may be the best option. Or a cabinet maker.

    #37692
    Profile photo of Brulen
    Brulen
    Survivalist
    member9

    Amazon has a book. Secret Rooms, Secret Compartments.

    When it comes right down to it though … a good safe with a fire rating. Multiple safes even. Some well hidden and some meant to be found easily.

    #37693
    Profile photo of 74
    74
    Survivalist
    rnews

    I believe Brulen has hit the bullseye.

    #37696
    Whirlibird
    Whirlibird
    Survivalist
    member10

    Okay, starting with the floor and subfloor.

    Obviously you’re going to put this on skids to move/put on trailer.
    Then your crossbeams to support the building. You can pack an amazing amount of stuff between the cross beams in SDR pipe.
    Your floor should float on the crossbeams, makes it easier to pack stuff from above and less portential damage in moving. Box in the crossbeams and heavily insulate around the storage area.

    Have I-beams installed for roof/wall support, think roll cage. Depending on what thickness you use, you can bump out the existing framework to deeper set the safe and murphy bed as well as almost doubling the insulation.

    You can use the spray in expanding foam insulation, but you’d better have all the wiring and plumbing and anything in place beforehand.
    I’d run a couple extra conduit runs in case later you want to expand.

    I’d make a solid ceiling using the joists and I-beams, putting a small storage attic in, storage area. The ceiling (floor) would also be heavily insulated.

    The roof, heavily sealed and insulated, metal roofs are miserable in hail storms, rain is bad enough.

    Cubbys can be built into the walls as you are getting ready to insulate the walls. This way they are insulated in place, making them more a part of the cabin rather than some added hidey hole.

    An extra run of heating duct that doesn’t go anywhere, that extra run of sewer pipe, blocked off of course, there are a number of possibilities, but most you will have to include them in original construction.

    Except some of the furniture of course.
    Depending on size, that ‘combat’ ottoman, fold up daybed frame and such will allmwork. But they all require one thing, you to know what and where to begin with, for sizes and locations.

    Too large, you can’t move them around, they block access to other items/locations. Or you end up doubling up on access, the cubby under the storage shelves also covers the access to the underneath piping.

    Again, start by mapping and planning the initial build, so you know how much room and access will have to work with.

    #37702
    Tolik
    Tolik
    Survivalist
    member10

    Another thing to keep in mind , depending on what your preparing for , is to only have SOME of your gear in your house , have other places or stashes away from your home , that way if they do find something , your not out . I worked in the theming industry for 25 years , making exhibits for zoos , natural history museums , theme parks , etc . I could tell you how to make things outside that look so real , you wouldnt know they were fake if you were standing on them . Here is a hint , you do 50% of the work , and nature does the other 50% , they wouldnt know it has not always been there . Lot of things you can do if you know how , just takes planning and some cash .

    #37758
    Profile photo of matt76
    matt76
    Survivalist
    member8

    My father in law used to have a hunting lease down in Mexico years ago. He and a couple of other guys would hunt several times a year down there. Instead of taking the chance that some crooked fedarali liked he and his friend’s hunting rifles more than they did, they took a bed with a hidden gun rack in it. The side rails of the bed frame had grooves along the inside. Both groves were parallel the whole length of the side rail about 3 inches apart. When the bed was assembled plywood was inserted in the grooves creating a support for the mattres and a false bottom. They stored there guns in this space and left them at camp when they went home. Now this wouldn’t work for fast deployment because you had to disassemble the bed to get them out but unless you knew they were there they would be difficult to find. You could use straps or foam cutouts to hold the guns in place if the bed folds into the wall.

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